Kabul Cuisine and Cautious Nights: An Aid Worker's Tale

Kabul -a city of contrasts. The vibrant restaurant scene offered a welcome escape from the ever-present security concerns. Following a recent incident at the Serena Hotel, security checks became an everyday reality.

My first night out for dinner was a memorable experience. Consulting the security team beforehand became routine, and their advice to avoid Indian restaurants due to recent events sent us in a different direction.

Boccaccio, an Italian restaurant in Wazir Akbar Khan, became our destination. The heavily guarded entrance underscored the city's tense atmosphere. However, inside, the restaurant bustled with expatriates, offering a sense of normalcy.

Understanding the menu as a vegetarian proved a challenge, but my colleague came to the rescue. My Tagliatele Funghi (mushroom pasta) satisfied my craving for hot and salty food, and the conversation flowed as we discussed work and upcoming projects. Informal discussions like this proved invaluable for getting acclimated to the new environment.

On the way back, a security checkpoint halted our car. After a brief conversation with our driver in Dari, the local language, the guards requested my passport. Having forgotten it at the guesthouse, I sheepishly offered my driver's license. Thankfully, it sufficed, and we continued our journey.

A few weeks later, my Nepali colleague, celebrating Navavarsha (the Nepali new year), proposed a celebratory dinner. We returned to Boccaccio, this time with two other colleagues, including Rod, who had just arrived from Sri Lanka. He was looking forward to a glass of wine and a relaxing meal after his long journey.

Disappointingly, the restaurant wasn't serving alcohol that night. Despite this, we enjoyed the food as before. On the return trip, the heavy security presence in the area piqued our curiosity. Our driver explained that the area housed international organizations, banks, and several foreign restaurants.

The next day's news revealed the reason for the tightened security – a police raid on a nearby Chinese restaurant. Apparently, they had arrested seventeen foreigners and confiscated a significant amount of alcohol. This incident highlighted the complexities of life in Kabul, where cultural norms and security concerns intertwined in unexpected ways.

This experience, though a decade old, remains a reminder of Kabul's unique blend of challenges and charm – a city where a delicious meal could be enjoyed amidst the ever-present awareness of a watchful security apparatus