Nepal: A Family Pilgrimage to Muktinath and Beyond

For fifteen years, Nepal had beckoned me back. During the earthquake response, I visited Mankamna Devi and Pashupatinath temples, and a powerful feeling arose - a desire to return with my family. After nearly a decade, that dream became reality.

Big thanks to Yeti Holidays for organizing an amazing trip to Nepal! 🇳🇵 They did a fantastic job considering all ages in our family - my mom, the kids, and us. The logistics were flawless, communication was clear and regular, and their staff were incredibly polite and knowledgeable. They truly made our trip unforgettable. Would highly recommend them to anyone planning a trip to Nepal! #YetiHolidays #TravelAgent #Nepal #GreatService

This past May, I embarked on a journey with my mother, wife, and children. We were also drawn to Muktinath temple, a holy site nestled in the Annapurna Conservation Area and revered by pilgrims worldwide. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, Muktinath is one of Hinduism's eight sacred Dhams and holds significance for Buddhists as well. The chance to experience this spiritual center amidst the majestic Himalayas was irresistible.
The trip marked a first for my mother - her maiden international flight - and a second for my wife and kids, who had previously visited me in Bangladesh with a side trip to Thailand. Our itinerary took us directly from Ahmedabad to Muktinath via Delhi, Kathmandu, and Pokhara - a whirlwind travel day rewarded by a refreshing night halt in Pokhara.

An early morning flight the next day whisked us to Jomsom, a quaint town nestled amidst the mountains. The temperature change was dramatic - a welcome shift from Ahmedabad's 45 degrees to a crisp 15 degrees. Our 1.5-hour drive to Muktinath revealed the splendour of the mountain landscape. The first day was spent exploring neighbouring villages, immersing ourselves in Buddhist culture.

The following day, we ascended the mountain towards Muktinath temple, a climb of about 400 steps. Fortunately, the weather cooperated, blessing us with clear skies and warm sunshine upon reaching the temple by 10 am. As tradition dictates, we took a purifying shower from the 108 water spouts and two holy kunds before entering the main sanctum.

The pagoda-style temple stands as a testament to the harmonious coexistence of Hinduism and Buddhism. Among the most ancient Vishnu temples, Muktinath features two sacred water ponds - Laxmi Kunda and Saraswati Kunda - believed to cleanse negative karma. The 108 water spouts represent Hinduism's 108 holy places, offering a chance for a sacred shower. Hindus revere this site as Muktikshetra, the place of salvation, while Buddhists call it Chumig Gyatsa, the place of 108 waterspouts. The Jwala Mai temple, with its three eternal flames housed within a Gompa, further enriches the spiritual tapestry of Muktinath.

According to Hindu mythology, this is where Lord Vishnu attained liberation from the curse of Brinda. Devotees believe the shrine itself rose miraculously. The temple is adorned with 108 cow faces, serving as conduits for pouring holy water. The customary practice involves bathing under the 108 waterspouts and holy ponds before entering the temple to offer prayers to Muktinath.

One of the eight Vishnu shrines and a revered Vaishnava Dham, Muktinath boasts a breathtaking backdrop - the snow-capped Annapurna range. The upper Mustang region and the Tibetan Plateau lie to the temple's north.

Unfavourable weather conditions grounded our return flight, prompting a scenic road trip back to Pokhara. This unexpected journey offered stunning views as we traversed mountains alongside rivers.

Pokhara unveiled its charm with the Bindhyabasini Temple, the city's oldest. Dedicated to the goddess Bindhyabasini, an incarnation of Kali, the temple complex also houses shrines to Saraswati, Shiva, Hanuman, and Ganesha. Perched atop a hill, the temple is accessible via staircases on the eastern and northeastern sides.

We explored other tourist attractions in Pokhara, with the kids even venturing into paragliding. Three leisurely days allowed us to unwind in a luxurious hotel, enjoying swims, delectable meals, and leisurely walks around the picturesque Phewa Lake.

Our Pokhara sojourn concluded with a flight to Kathmandu. Here, we visited the Pashupatinath temple, a masterpiece of Hindu architecture situated on the banks of the Bagmati River. This cubic structure boasts four main entrances adorned with silver sheets, a double-storied copper roof plated with gold, and intricate wooden carvings believed to grant wishes. The colossal golden statue of Nandi, Shiva's bull, is a sight to behold. While entry into the main temple is restricted to Hindus, the surrounding buildings offer a glimpse into the temple's grandeur. The eastern bank of the river provides a panoramic view of the temple, while the western bank houses the Panch Deval complex, once a holy shrine, now serving as a haven for the elderly.

Three enriching days in Kathmandu allowed us to visit various landmarks, relax in our hotel, indulge in shopping at Thamel, and reconnect with friends.

Enriching our Kathmandu Experience

My very close friend Ashok was kind enough to take us on a special morning walk through Kathmandu's Durbar Square. Stepping into this historic site was like stepping back in time. Durbar Square, meaning "palace" in Nepali, served as the heart of the old city and the seat of power for Kathmandu's kings.

Located just a short distance from the bustling Thamel district, Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as Basantapur Durbar Square or Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, is one of Kathmandu's most captivating landmarks. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, it boasts stunning Newari architecture, lively bazaars, and a rich historical significance.

Kathmandu Durbar Square is one of three such squares within the Kathmandu Valley, the others being Patan Durbar Square and Bhaktapur Durbar Square. These squares were centers for royal ceremonies, religious rituals, and even kingly coronations.

As we walked through the square, surrounded by ancient statues, ornate fountains, and serene courtyards like Mohan Chok and Sundari Chok, a sense of peace and tranquility enveloped us. Ashok explained the square's importance as a meditative and religious site for both Hindus and Buddhists.

Within the inner complex lies the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Complex, the former residence of the Shah and Malla Dynasty kings who ruled Kathmandu until the 19th century. These grand palaces have now been transformed into museums, offering a glimpse into the city's royal past.

Ashok also took us to a particularly significant place for his family - the Akash Bhairav temple. This beautiful bronze and gold structure is dedicated to Akash Bhairava, the God of the Sky. Legend has it that this very temple served as the palace of the first King of Nepal, King Yalambar, around 3,100-3,500 years ago. An intriguing detail is that the head of the Akash Bhairav statue is taken out of the temple only once a year to be blessed by the Living Goddess Kumari during the Indra Jatra festival.

Our exploration of Durbar Square not only revealed its architectural marvels but also served as a window into the fascinating fusion of Hindu and Buddhist cultures in Nepal. Ashok shared another example of this harmonious blend - the Janakpur temple dedicated to Mata Janaki. Interestingly, this temple was built by Muslims in the Mughal style, highlighting the peaceful coexistence of religious communities in Nepal. This enriching experience with Ashok deepened our understanding of Kathmandu's cultural and historical significance. It was a perfect complement to our spiritual pilgrimage and a reminder of the many layers Nepal has to offer.

This Nepal adventure wasn't just a pilgrimage; it was a family bonding experience amidst breathtaking landscapes and profound spiritual encounters. The memories we created will forever be cherished.

Tips for fellow travellers:

• Plan your trip around the seasons: Spring (March-May) and autumn (October-November) offer pleasant weather for both sightseeing and trekking.
• Acclimatize properly: If you're planning a high-altitude trek like Muktinath, allow sufficient time for acclimatization to avoid altitude sickness.
• Embrace the adventure: Be prepared for unexpected changes in plans, like our road trip back from Muktinath. Sometimes, these detours lead to the most unforgettable experiences.
• Respect local customs and traditions: Dress modestly when visiting religious sites, and be mindful of photography restrictions.
• Learn a few Nepali phrases: A basic greeting like "Namaste" goes a long way in connecting with the locals.

Nepal's magic lies in its stunning landscapes, rich cultural tapestry, and the warmth of its people. This trip was a dream fulfilled, and I can't wait to return and explore more of this incredible country someday.