February 01, 2011

Travel: From One Earthquake to Another... Part 3

Today, I'd like to share a glimpse into my typical day in Haiti. Given that I've spent most of my career working in rural areas and facing unusual circumstances, living in a major city like Port-au-Prince has been a unique experience for me over the past six years.

Port-au-Prince, the capital of Haiti, is home to 34% of the country's population. Just like any other big city, it has its share of towering buildings (some of which still bear the scars of the earthquake), supermarkets, traffic jams, winding streets, and a vibrant nightlife with clubs, dance bars, and parties.

The city's cultural influences are a blend of American and French. While Creole, which resembles French, is the primary language, the American influence is evident in the lifestyle, speech patterns, clothing choices, and aspirations of the people.

I'm fortunate to have a spacious and comfortable three-bedroom house to share with two colleagues – one from Rwanda and the other from Punjab. We have a lovely rooftop terrace where we enjoy our evenings. Often, we gather there, late into the night, sharing stories and laughter. Our Punjabi friend plays ghazals while our Rwandan friend accompanies him with African dance moves. I find myself lost in the melodies and the beauty of the starlit sky. Sometimes, it feels like the lyrics of the ghazals come to life – the moonlight, the open sky, the twinkling stars, the cool breeze, the comfort of an armchair, the absence of worries, and the joy of singing our favorite songs after a hearty meal of khichdi. Life is indeed beautiful.

My daily routine is quite simple: Wake up at 5:30 AM
  • Take a shower and do some light exercise (this time I'm determined to get in shape before returning home)
  • Drink a glass of water with lemon and honey
  • Head to the office at 7 AM
  • Hit the gym at 5 PM for a two-hour workout session. I must admit, I particularly enjoy the French music that plays in the background while everyone works out.
  • Return home at 8 PM and put khichdi or makkai ni phadi khichdi (a dish made with maize grits, garlic-ginger tadka, lentils, vegetables, and cooked in a pressure cooker) on the stove
  • Take a relaxing bath
  • Enjoy dinner with my two roommates
  • Depending on the mood, we either retire to our rooms for some quiet time or gather on the rooftop terrace for more conversations.
Generally, finding vegetarian food in Haiti isn't a major challenge. However, it does require some adjustments and flexibility. A few days ago, during lunchtime, we had the option of ordering food from a nearby place. The woman preparing my lunch box first scooped out rice, followed by rajma (kidney beans) and kadhi (a yoghurt-based curry), using a spoon that had previously been used to scoop meat from a pot. I politely declined and instead shared a biscuit packet with my colleague. If you enjoy cooking, living a vegetarian lifestyle in Haiti isn't too difficult. In fact, most of my colleagues are happy to dine at my place and enjoy my Indian food.

More to come in the next instalment...

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