Learning and Preparation: As an aid worker with experience in Sri Lanka, India, Bangladesh, and Indonesia, I craved the intensity of working in more volatile environments. Sudan, Somalia, Afghanistan – these were the names that whispered of purpose and challenge. While Kitgum wasn't on my original list, it held the allure of a new continent, a fresh set of challenges..
The HLF was a whirlwind of learning. Meeting Obia, just returning from Kitgum, was a stroke of luck. His detailed briefing on the situation – from healthcare needs to local customs – painted a vivid picture of the world I was about to enter. Then came William, a beacon of hope in the form of a fellow Indian from Ahmedabad! A vegetarian lifesaver, he understood my struggle with unfamiliar flavors. His social briefing was invaluable, but his most significant contribution was the treasure trove of ready-made Indian food and spices he bestowed upon me. Those little packets became a lifeline in a land where every meal was an adventure.
The Journey and Arrival: The nine-hour flight from London to Kampala via British Airways was a time of reflection. Leaving behind the vibrant chaos of Ahmedabad, I was swapping familiarity for the unknown. The bustling energy of Entebbe Airport, filled with a cacophony of languages and warm smiles, was a stark contrast to the sterile efficiency of European airports. A quick SIM card purchase ensured I could stay connected, and a message flew home, announcing my unexpected African adventure.
The next day, a 7-hour car ride to Kitgum unfolded before me. Lush greenery contrasted with red and brown earth, and tall, well-built people replaced the crowds of Ahmedabad. Reaching Kitgum, I was greeted by a decent and spacious guesthouse with a friendly French colleague who introduced me to the staff, including a familiar face – an old college friend who was the outgoing Program Manager!
Settling In: My room, a modest but comfortable 12ft x 12ft space, became my temporary home. The bed promised much-needed rest after long days, while the table and chair offered a space to work and write. The cupboard, a blank canvas, would soon be filled with the essentials of my life in Kitgum. The shared kitchen was a godsend – a place to whip up familiar Indian snacks using the limited ingredients available. Thankfully, the cook, upon learning of my dietary restrictions, catered to my needs. Evenings were spent savoring simple meals of potato and beans, supplemented by my beloved Indian snacks. Okra cooked in gravy, a new and unexpected discovery, became a favorite after a liberal dose of chili sauce.
A Taste of Local Flavor: While the guesthouse meals were a safe haven for my taste buds, a craving for something different was inevitable. The Bomah Hotel, a local gem recommended by William, became my go-to spot for a change of pace. The food was delicious, offering a window into Ugandan cuisine – a world of tomato-based dishes, subtly spiced and unlike anything I had experienced before. It was a reminder that while the work I was here to do was serious, there was also room for exploration and cultural immersion.
Introducing Kitgum: Kitgum, the capital of Kitgum district, lies in the north, bordering Sudan and neighbouring other Ugandan districts. With a population of around 340,000, the town itself housed roughly 60,000 people. As I delved deeper into the local health reports, a stark reality emerged. Malaria, respiratory tract infections, diarrhea, and malnutrition were just a few of the major health concerns plaguing the region. Less than half the population had access to safe drinking water, a statistic that underscored the immense challenges ahead. The dry and rainy seasons dictated life here, with hot, windy days prevailing from December to mid-March.
Building Connections: Following William's lead, I met Harshad Patel, a well-known figure in Kitgum for over five years. We discussed the town from his perspective over a cup of tea at the Bomah Hotel. We also met Tajas, who ran a supermarket, and several others working with Harshad. As he offered a tour of the town, I felt a sense of belonging grow – this new place already held promise.
A Glimpse into the Challenges: The 20-year civil war had cast a long shadow. Displaced people lived in cramped IDP camps with limited access to basic necessities. The epicentre of the war, Kitgum was surrounded by these camps, each facing severe water and sanitation issues. While these details would become a harsh reality soon enough, for now, excitement about this new chapter fueled my spirit.
This unexpected turn of events in Oxford led me to a land steeped in history and challenges.
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